Cultural Code and Appropriation. Finding the Fine Line

Cultural borrowing remains a hot and controversial topic in the fashion industry. In 2024, Prada faced criticism for using Indian sandals in its collection without mentioning their cultural significance. Similar cases have previously occurred at Dior, Isabel Marant, Louis Vuitton — and the question is increasingly being raised: where is the boundary between inspiration and appropriation? With the growing interest in identity and decolonial thinking, the cultural context becomes an integral part of fashionable utterance. Is it possible to avoid appropriation in a global industry where the intersection of cultures is part of its very nature?

• In what cases does borrowing a cultural code become an act of appropriation?
• Should brands identify sources of inspiration — and how to do it respectfully?
• How to build a dialogue with the bearers of the cultural code: practices and partnerships?
• Are there universal principles of "ethical" borrowing, or is every situation unique?