Crisis of Authority. Who Decides What’s Fashionable These Days?

The traditional fashion hierarchy — in which taste was shaped by magazine editors, leading designers, and museum curators — is undergoing a tectonic shift. Today, social media algorithms, user-generated content, and direct-to-consumer e-commerce are shaping the perception of trends faster than official Fashion Weeks ever could.

This shift is particularly pronounced across BRICS+ countries, where local identities increasingly collide with dominant global — and often Western — fashion narratives.

A paradox is emerging: while consumer choice appears more democratic than ever, real influence is increasingly concentrated in the hands of algorithmic “black boxes,” while traditional notions of quality, craftsmanship, and expertise are being blurred by highly shareable visual content.

We are left with a fundamental question: Has fashion ceased to function primarily as a cultural institution and become a pure metric of engagement? And in this new landscape, who is responsible for defining and preserving cultural value?

• How have social media and platforms changed the traditional hierarchy of authority?
• Who shapes fashion trends in BRICS+ countries: international media, local influencers, or consumers through UGC?
• Do traditional institutions (fashion weeks, fashion magazines, museums) still retain their authority?
• How do social media and e-commerce platform algorithms influence what is considered fashionable?
• Do tangible indicators of quality still matter today, or have they been replaced by informational imagery?
• What is the new role of the fashion critic: curator, facilitator, or art historian?